Friday,
we have a fairly sizable Christmas party in one of the shokudou. The
attendees are a coalition of the reciprocal exchange students, our
tutors, and the (all-Japanese) international club. Anarchy in the UK
hosts haphazardly. Food, performances. Hyeong dances to Gangnam
Style. It's uneventful, but enjoyable.
And
there's Christmas cake. Not a real Christmas cake, but like a cake
cake, with customary strawberries. Incidentally, the other
traditional food here is chicken. Sometimes I want to complain that
this is not what Christmas is. But really, what we do in Canada is
hardly Christmas either. We went deep into Xmas territory decades ago
and never looked back. And anyway, it's not a KFC conspiracy, it
turns out it's just because they don't have turkeys here. Let the
Japanese have their fun. I can get into it.
The
bulletin board downstairs says “Classes offered” under December
24th.
It's the worst possible choice of words, seeming to indicate that
it's not mandatory, but if you really feel the need to get some study
time in then hey, drop on in. It's only more confusing for we North
Americans, all three of us, for whom the important day is actually
the 25th.
I wake
up this morning and I'm not sure how I'm supposed to feel. I settle
on “pissed off,” but it's got no edge. Mostly I just feel blank.
I've always kind of hated the omnipresent, commercial, overplay every
possible Christmas song old and new until you want to poke your
eardrums out, saccharine force-feeding session that starts at 0:00 on
November 1st,
so I was as surprised as anyone to find out I actually kind of miss
it. I want to hear carols, and be told untrue platitudes about the
meaning of Christmas, and watch Love, Actually
and shitty seasonal specials. Well, that last bit I've always liked
anyway. For foreigners who are into holiday spirit, family communion,
and other stuff that leaves my hard heart unmoved, Christmas in Japan
is probably a little bit awful.
But if
that's not enough, don't worry, you'll have a whole different reason
to feel bad about yourself! The focus here is very different from
what you're probably used to, catering to couples, not families.
Japanese Christmas is like Valentine's Day on cr...no, on MDMA.
Campus
is almost empty, but almost everybody who is
there is paired off. No, that must be my imagination. No, it
definitely isn't. The air's finally taken on a bit of bite, and we
get a little flurry, which makes me feel better.
In the
evening I head to Sanjou-Shijou to bask in other people's happiness.
Couples everywhere,
they're all adorable, and they're being waaaaay more couply than you
will ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever see on any other
day in Japan. I perform my usual aimless wandering, revel in the
general atmosphere, and it's wonderful. For about half an hour. After
that I just feel sorry for myself. For the first time in a long time,
I regret being single. I meander between depression and tragic
apathy, and it's difficult to say which is more poisonous. But I came
because I wanted to be
depressed, anyway. Better than feeling nothing at all, so why not
wallow in it. Around 10 o'clock, 70% of the couples have dissipated,
secreted away to apartments and love hotels. I don't want to leave,
but I have a train to catch.
Probably
be back tomorrow. That's the kind of self-destructive prick I am.
At
home, I open the gift I've received from my parents. We've had
our differences, still do, but they're not bad people. It's Hemingway's
The Sun Also Rises.
Excellent choice, except that I already own it. Read it on the plane,
in fact. Somehow, my one Christmas present seems far lonelier than if
I'd gotten none at all.
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